I was born in Tbilisi’s ancient bathing district, where hot, sulfurous water bubbles up from beneath the earth and steam escapes through the domed roofs of the old bathhouses. 

As a kid, I always bubbled with energy too. I talk at triple speed, and people often have to tell me to slow down. My childhood neighborhood, the Abanotubani district, lies beneath a great gorge in Tbilisi. A huge, ruined fortress overlooks our neighborhood —- for centuries, it served as a stronghold for Tbilisi, protecting it against invaders.

Why this story?

Georgia is in turmoil over a law that threatens to stamp out opposition, independent media and activist groups by forcing them to declare their foreign funding sources. The Georgian government says it will make the country more transparent. But the law, which has now been approved by parliament, is a carbon copy of Russia’s foreign agents legislation, which Vladimir Putin’s government has used to wipe out all remnants of a democratic society in Russia. The foreign agents law, which pushes Georgia towards Russia’s orbit, is a major shift in the country's direction. Since mid-April, the Georgian capital Tbilisi has erupted with protests, with tens of thousands of people taking to the streets each day. Luka Gviniashvili, 24, is part of the protests’ impassioned contingent of Gen Z participants, who are leaders in the movement.

Now, views of the fortress are obscured by an even bigger mansion, built by the billionaire Bidzina Ivanishvili, the richest man in our country. His wealth is about a third of our gross domestic product. Construction on his house began when I was a toddler: a great sea of glass and metal dominating the gorge. I remember looking up and thinking it looked like a Bond villain’s lair.